Best jigsaws for woodworking: Current models compared

The best jigsaw is not the model with the biggest performance claim. It is the saw whose handle, power source, blade control, and dust setup match the curves and cutouts you actually make.

For a first woodworking jigsaw, start with a current T-shank model that offers variable speed, straight plus orbital blade action, a stable shoe, and a blower that can be turned off when a vacuum is connected. Keep a circular saw or track saw in the plan for long straight work; a narrow jigsaw blade can deflect when it is pushed through thick stock.

Woodworking jigsaw shortlist at a glance

Current model	Best fit	Power and cut control	Weight and ergonomics	Safety and dust features	Who should skip it
Bosch JS470E	General shop work; familiar top-handle control	Corded 7 amp; 500–3,100 SPM; four orbital settings; T-shank clamp	5.6 lb; D-handle with accelerator trigger	Blade-ejection lever, switchable blower, optional dust attachment	Mobile crews or anyone already committed to cordless cutting
Bosch JS470EB	Corded barrel-grip control for curves and cutouts	Corded 7 amp; 500–3,100 SPM; four orbital settings; T-shank clamp	5.9 lb; lower grip with a speed dial and slide switch	Blade-ejection lever, switchable blower, optional dust attachment	Users who prefer trigger modulation or have difficulty wrapping a hand around the barrel
Milwaukee 2737-20	M18 users who want a cordless D-handle saw	M18; 0–3,500 SPM; four orbital positions; tool-free bevel detents	Battery size changes balance; two-finger variable-speed trigger	Trigger lock, LED, dust cover and tube, switchable blower	Buyers without M18 batteries or shop users who do not need mobility
Milwaukee 2737B-20	M18 users who prefer a lower barrel grip	M18; six speed settings to 3,500 SPM; four orbital positions	Ambidextrous slide switch; battery choice affects total weight and rear balance	LED, dust cover and tube, switchable blower	Users who want a trigger or plan to bevel with batteries larger than the manual permits
Makita XVJ02Z	Existing 18V LXT users who want broad speed control	18V LXT; 800–3,500 SPM; three orbital settings plus straight; T-shank	5.8 lb with battery; 10-1/2-inch body and two-finger trigger	Dual LEDs, blower, electronic overload protection	Buyers starting a different battery platform or needing a corded shop saw

These are use-case fits, not performance winners. Kit contents change, and a bare-tool model may omit the battery, charger, extraction adapter, guide, or case. Verify the exact suffix and included equipment before ordering.

How this shortlist was prepared

The Carpenter’s Guide did not handle, cut with, or instrument-test these jigsaws. We checked live manufacturer pages and manuals for model status, blade system, stroke rate, orbital settings, bevel adjustment, weight where published, and dust-control provisions. We removed unsupported runtime and “smoothest tested” claims from the previous version of this page.

We also reviewed Popular Mechanics’ January 2026 jigsaw guide for independent selection context. Its author discloses commercial-carpentry experience and says more formal jigsaw testing is still planned, so we do not treat that list as controlled comparative data.

Source status: Product documentation and availability were checked October 26, 2026. Specifications can change by market or type number; the nameplate and manual supplied with the exact saw control.

Top-handle vs. barrel-grip jigsaws

A top-handle, also called a D-handle, puts a loop above the motor and normally provides a variable-speed trigger. It is familiar, leaves room for a gloved hand, and makes quick starts and stops intuitive. The higher hand position can feel less direct when tracing a tight curve.

A barrel grip removes the upper loop and places the hand around the motor housing. The lower hand position may help some users steer a curve or operate the saw upside down for a scribed cut. It also makes body diameter, switch position, heat, and battery balance more personal.

Do not select by internet consensus. With the tool unplugged or its battery removed, try the grip with the shoe flat, the wrist neutral, and the battery size you expect to use. Confirm that you can reach the switch without shifting into the blade path.

Corded vs. cordless jigsaws

Choose corded when most work happens at a bench with power and continuous availability matters more than mobility. The Bosch JS470E and JS470EB share a 7-amp platform but offer different handles. Plan cord routing so the cord cannot cross the blade path or snag during a curve.

Choose cordless when cutouts happen in installed countertops, cabinets, floors, or jobsite material away from an outlet. Battery ownership should drive the decision: a compatible pack and charger may matter more than a small specification difference between brands.

Do not publish or rely on a generic “cuts per charge” promise. Runtime changes with battery, blade, material, thickness, orbital setting, feed rate, and temperature. Bring a charged spare when an unfinished cut would create a problem.

Current jigsaw options by use case

Bosch JS470E: corded D-handle baseline

The JS470E is the most straightforward choice here for a stationary shop. Bosch specifies a 7-amp motor, 500–3,100 strokes per minute, four orbital settings, a die-cast aluminum footplate, and a T-shank-only clamp. The trigger varies speed up to the limit set by the rear dial.

Choose it when you want familiar trigger control and do not need a battery. Skip it if a cord will complicate installed work or if a barrel grip fits your hand better.

Bosch JS470EB: corded barrel-grip alternative

The JS470EB uses the same basic corded capacity but moves the hand around the body and uses a slide switch plus speed dial. It is 5.9 pounds according to Bosch, slightly heavier than the JS470E’s published 5.6 pounds.

The meaningful difference is control layout, not a claim that one cuts more accurately. Accuracy still depends on blade choice, a flat shoe, feed pressure, material support, and whether the required cut is realistic for a jigsaw.

Milwaukee 2737-20 and 2737B-20: choose the M18 handle

Milwaukee offers the 2737 platform in D-handle and barrel-grip forms. Both accept T-shank blades, provide four orbital positions, include dust-control parts, and reach a published 3,500 SPM. The D-handle uses a variable-speed trigger; the barrel model uses a speed dial and ambidextrous switch.

Read the Milwaukee 2737 manual before choosing a pack for the barrel model. Milwaukee says batteries larger than 5.0 Ah interfere with bevel cutting and the dust attachment on that configuration. That is a compatibility constraint, not a runtime recommendation.

Makita XVJ02Z: an LXT platform option

Makita lists the XVJ02Z at 800–3,500 SPM, with straight cutting plus three orbital settings, a tool-free T-shank clamp, a 0–45-degree bevel range, dual LEDs, and a built-in blower. The published 5.8-pound weight includes a battery, while the battery and charger are not included with the bare tool.

It is a sensible comparison for an existing 18V LXT owner. It is not automatically a better first purchase than the Bosch or Milwaukee options; platform cost, grip, dust connection, and local service still need checking.

Curves, cutouts, and straight-cut expectations

A jigsaw earns its place on curves, notches, sink cutouts, scribing, and interior openings. Drill a starter hole large enough for the selected blade when a plunge cut is not expressly supported. Keep the shoe flat and let the blade reach full motion before feeding into the work.

For long straight cuts, a jigsaw is a compromise. The blade can bend sideways even when the shoe follows a guide, leaving the bottom of a thick board off the intended line. Use the circular saw selection guide for framing and sheet goods or compare a track saw with a circular saw when guide-rail accuracy and splinter control are central.

Match the blade and orbital setting to the cut

• Use the blade maker’s material and thickness range; do not select by tooth count alone.
• Start with zero orbit for tight curves, laminates, metal, and cleaner edge work. Add orbit for faster cutting in suitable wood when a rougher edge is acceptable.
• Standard up-cut wood blades tend to splinter the top face. Reverse-tooth, down-cut, or specialty blades change chip direction and tool behavior, so follow their instructions rather than a universal “good face” rule.
• Use a wider, suitable blade and slow feed for straighter work. Forcing the saw increases deflection and heat.
• Turn the blower off when the manual requires it for dust extraction. A clear pencil line is not the same as captured fine dust.

Pre-purchase checklist

1. Name the work: tight curves, countertop cutouts, scribing, rough demolition, or short guided cuts.
2. Choose the handle in person: check switch reach, glove clearance, wrist position, and battery balance.
3. Confirm the blade system: all models in this shortlist use T-shank blades; verify the blades you need are available locally.
4. Check the complete kit: battery, charger, shoe cover, splinter guard, extraction tube, adapter, guide, case, and blades vary by SKU.
5. Plan dust control: match the saw’s outlet to the extractor and confirm whether the blower must be disabled.
6. Inspect service support: find the current manual, parts route, warranty terms, and an authorized service option.
7. Make a scrap test: use project material to check edge quality, curve radius, bevel, splintering, and bottom-side blade deflection.

Safe first-cut setup

Disconnect the plug or remove the battery before touching the blade, shoe, guard, or dust attachment. Support and clamp the work so the offcut can fall without pinching the blade. Keep both hands away from the line beneath the work, where the blade extends beyond the shoe.

Wear eye and hearing protection and control wood dust with the extraction method allowed by the tool and material instructions. Replace bent, cracked, dull, or incorrect blades. If the cut starts to wander, stop and let the blade come to rest before backing out; twisting a running blade is not a correction method.

Sources and scope

Specifications and model status were checked October 26, 2026 against:

• Bosch JS470E product page and Bosch JS470 manual
• Bosch JS470EB product page
• Milwaukee 2737-20 product page, 2737B-20 product page, and 2737 operator’s manual
• Makita XVJ02Z product page
• Popular Mechanics 2026 jigsaw selection guide

Manufacturer values are not proof that one saw outperforms another. This page provides a documented selection framework, not a substitute for the exact manual or a hands-on fit check.

Your next step

Write down your battery platform, handle preference, most common material and thickness, minimum curve radius, dust-extractor connection, and whether straight-cut quality is actually the priority. Then handle the two grip styles and make a representative scrap cut before committing.

If the job is primarily straight cutting, continue to the current circular saw comparison. If you are building a first cordless platform, compare that decision with the cordless drill guide before buying a saw-only kit.